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Using Worms To Make Compost
Rhonda Sherman does worm composting by the book. In fact, she wrote a book called “The Worm Farmer’s Handbook” and she operates a worm composting system at North Carolina State University’s Compost Learning Lab.
“Often, people will see a YouTube video on the subject and decide to try it,” says Sherman, an extension specialist. “After they have product, they will contact me and ask where to sell it.”
She recommends developing business and marketing plans before thinking about equipment. And then start small.
Sherman suggests learning to feed and maintain about a pound of worms before expanding. Her book can help. It covers about 2 dozen successful vermicomposting operations in detail, including her own at the Compost Learning Lab.
She uses 45 by 48-in. vegetable-hauling bins with smooth sides and ventilation slots on every side and on the bottom. Each bin holds up to 1,300 lbs. and costs about $230.
She insulates the bins to stabilize the temperature, which in her case with an open barn, is really hot in the summer and quite cold in the winter.
Sherman starts with 6 in. of moist, mature compost, fully cured and with a small particle size. This prevents it from heating up. She adds 1 lb. of worms per square foot of surface area. She then adds about an inch of dairy manure feedstock at a time. She feeds raw manure with straw, but recommends pre-composted manure to eliminate weed seeds and break down the straw.
“A 5-gal. bucketful is about right for the bin,” she says. “I dump it in and spread it around, leaving a couple of inches of bedding exposed around the edges. This is a safe zone for the worms.”
As the worms consume the chunky manure, the surface begins to flatten out. When it is flat like a pool table, it is time for more manure. In her open barn, it can take a week between feedings. In a temperature-controlled system, it might take only 2 or 3 days.
“No matter what kind of system, you feed according to consumption, not on a schedule,” says Sherman.
The only problem with her system is harvest. She removes the top 6 in. where most of the worms can be found and digs out the castings.
If Sherman’s system is labor intensive, Tom Christenberry’s is not. Vermicomposting for nearly 50 years, he has tried a variety of systems, but prefers trenches in the ground. He has had them outside, in greenhouses, and in long barns.
“I’m retired now, but still do some vermicomposting in the backyard,” says Christenberry of Wilson, N.C. “The trenches were the easiest system to manage and the cheapest. They let you take advantage of the warmth of the earth.”
The trenches were uniformly 3 ft. wide and about 18 to 20 in. deep. Half-in. thick plastic panels lined the side walls to keep the worms in the trench. About 6 in. of 80 percent moisture, wood fiber-based compost, such as ground-up wood chips, were placed at the bottom of the trench.
With an open-topped system, it is essential to keep the area lit at night. “The lights keep the worms from climbing out of the beds at night,” says Christenberry.
The width allowed him to straddle the trench with a tractor. He would drop in the woody compost and then apply the feedstock manure (he prefers hog manure for its fine grain) using a manure spreader without the spinner.
“I would lay down a 2 1/2-ft. wide stream of manure, never more than 3 in. thick,” says Christenberry. “This left spaces at the sides for the worms to escape to, should the manure start to heat.”
Christenberry would start out with Sherman’s 1 lb. of worms per square foot and manage from there. “In a month, they can double,” he says. “By the end of 2 months, you should move half of them out and into another bed.”
In addition to managing the worm count, Christenberry emphasizes an 80 percent moisture level for the worms and maintaining a comfortable temperature. Excess moisture drains away through the wood compost base. Adding moisture is as simple as driving over the trench and applying a mist as needed. Temperature is a matter of the facility. He recommends a greenhouse or open ended barn. In more northern climates, he suggests closed barns with heated water piped through the trench in the winter.
“When you see someone doing something well, copy it the best you can and follow their suggestions,” says Christenberry. “People get greedy and take shortcuts, like keeping too many worms in a bed. Just like having too many cows or hogs in a pen, they won’t do well.”
Sherman notes that Christenberry was unique in using hog manure for his vermicompost. Most operations use dairy manure. However, University of Ohio researchers evaluated product from multiple different feedstocks and found Christenberry’s best overall.
Contact: FARM SHOW Followup, Rhonda Sherman, North Carolina State University, Dept. of Horticultural Science, 160 Kilgore Hall, Raleigh, N.C. 27695 (sherman@ncsu.edu) or Thomas Christenberry, 1305 Buxton Rd., Wilson, N.C. 27896 (christenberry@myglnc.com).


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2020 - Volume #44, Issue #6