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Homemade Heated Waterer
Mike Roub of Chickaloon, Alaska, got tired of replacing the infrared heat bulbs on his heated chicken waterer, so he came up with his own design.
  He used 1/8-in. steel to weld together a 1-ft. square box with a hinged door on front. Inside the box he mounted a thermostat and a porcelain light fixture for a 60-watt light bulb. A plastic waterer sets on top of the box and is warmed by the box’s top plate.
  “I built it in a couple of hours with stuff I already had, and wish I had come up with it sooner,” says Roub. “I had been using an infrared bulb suspended over a waterer, but I went through too many bulbs. Also, I had to close the chicken coop to keep it warm enough inside so the water wouldn’t freeze. I couldn’t bring myself to pay $75 for a cheaply-built commercial heated waterer,” says Roub.
  “The heat on my waterer is where it needs to be, right under the water. I set the thermostat at 80 degrees and the light cycles on and off accordingly. The box stays warm but not hot - I can hold my hand on top of it with no problem. I now go through only about one light bulb per year.
   “Now I can leave a small door on the coop open and let the chickens go in or out, even in winter,” he says. “Allowing the chickens to free-range this way has made an amazing difference. They stay healthier and don’t peck on each other as much, which keeps their plumage in better condition.”
  He covers the area around the box with wood shavings that serves as bedding. “I made the box tight enough to keep bedding from getting near the heat source, and I bent down the oversized edges on top of the box to keep any water that gets spilled away from the electricity,” notes Roub.
  Contact: FARM SHOW Followup, Mike Roub, P.O. Box 1236, Chickaloon, Alaska 99674 (ph 907 232-4323; mroub3@gmail.com).


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2017 - Volume #41, Issue #6