2014 - Volume #38, Issue #5, Page #29[ Sample Stories From This Issue | List of All Stories In This Issue | Print this story | Read this issue]
Home-Built Booster Heats Water In Wood Stove
The New Ipswich, N.H., woodshop owner, attached the booster to a frame he made of 1/4 by 2 1/2-in. steel flat stock. The frame fits the stove’s opening without making any alterations to the stove. When he needs hot water, he removes the stove’s door, slips on the booster frame and replaces the door on the frame.
Cold water enters from the bottom through a flexible truck-type heater hose into a brass pipe at the bottom of the frame connected to three brass pipes that go inside the stove. The hot water returns through a similar setup at the top of the frame.
“To make water circulate properly, the top line should run level or upgrade as thermo siphon action is a gravitational force,” Ojala says. “This water heater booster can be connected to any standard electric, gas, oil-fired or indirect water heater tank or stand alone water storage tank that will take normal residential or commercial working water pressure.”
He notes copper can also be used with high temperature solder. Units can also be smaller; he made a one-pipe unit for a friend’s stove.
Ojala emphasizes that no shut-off valves should be installed on the water lines unless there is a relief valve, that a licensed plumber must approve all work, and that it’s wise to check local codes.
To prevent it from burning out, Ojala removes the booster from the stove when it isn’t needed. The booster weighs about 45 lbs. (with water), and is easy to install and remove, he says.
If anyone would like more detailed information on how to build the booster and hook it up to a water heater, Ojala is willing to answer questions.
Contact: FARM SHOW Followup, Tim Ojala, 185 Thayer Rd., New Ipswich, N.H. 03071 (ph 603 878-2024 – no Sunday calls).
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