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Gearbox Engine Stand Handles Big Repairs
Every engine repair shop needs a good engine stand. Matt Throener of Matt's Ag Service, Carnegie, Oklahoma, made his own.
  He started by making a sturdy frame out of 4-in. sq. steel tubing. Then he mounted a final drive gearbox from an 860 Allis Chalmers cotton picker on the stand. "You can find this same gearbox on a Gleaner G combine," Throener says. "It has a 21 to 1 gear reduction in it. I put a hand crank and chain on it so I can rotate the engine 360 degrees with hardly any effort."
  On the engine side of the gearbox shaft, Throener attached a mounting plate on it fitted with a length of 3-in. heavy walled pipe. He makes individual brackets to fit the mounting holes on the engines he's repairing. In the center of the bracket, he attaches a length of 2 5/8-in. drill stem pipe that fits into the 3-in. pipe on the mounting plate. To attach an engine to the stand, he lifts it from the tractor with an overhead hoist and moves it to the stand. Then he mounts the adaptor on the engine and slides it onto the engine stand, securing it with a bolt..
  "I had a 903 Cummins V-8 on it recently and it held rock solid," he says. "I could rotate the engine to any position and it was still solid and secure."
  He says making mounting brackets for the engines takes very little time, and once he's made one, he can use it over and over.
  "If I have a heavy long block engine, like a 6 cylinder in-line diesel, I have to be a little more careful. The stand is solid enough, but when you're rotating it, you can feel the weight of the engine on the crank.
  "The stand is big enough and sturdy enough to hold the entire engine, including the flywheel and accessories on it," he says.
  Contact: FARM SHOW Followup, Matt Throener, Matt's Ag Service, Rt. 2, Box 55, Carnegie, Okla. 73015 (ph 580 654-1212; fax 580 654-2117).


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2002 - Volume #26, Issue #2