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Handy Way To Operate Air Tools
Walt Hanefeld, Continental, Ohio: "The 2 1/2-in. dia. exhaust pipe on my Silver King tractor goes down through the hood and screws into the exhaust manifold. Whenever it rained, water would follow down the pipe and leak into the engine manifold and into the crankcase. To solve the problem, I brazed a belt tensioner idler pulley off a 1988 GM car engine onto the bottom part of the pipe to form an umbrella just above the manifold. I pressed the bearing out of the pulley, then used a hole saw to enlarge the hole so I could slip the pulley over the pipe. I've also used this idea on two other tractors. It works great.
  "I first read about Helicoil inserts in FARM SHOW (Vol. 23, No. 5) and now use them to repair stripped threads (Emhart, Heli-Coil, 510 River Rd., Shelton, Ct. 06484 ph 203 924-9341). I also use Speedy Sleeves to repair shafts whenever a seal wears a groove in the shaft which causes the seal to leak. Speedy Sleeves provide a new surface for the seal to run on so it doesn't leak. They can be found at most stores that sell ball bearings.
  "I came up with a handy way to operate air tools in my 2 1/2-car garage-shop. I ran 1/2-in. dia. PVC lines up one wall, along the ceiling, and down the opposite wall. An air compressor is hooked up to a æT' coupler that's mounted on one wall. There's also a T coupler on the ceiling, with an air hose hanging down from it, and a coupler on the other wall. Every time I want to use an air tool I just plug it into a coupler. It's really handy to use because I don't have to drag air hoses across the floor. I used PVC lines instead of other material because PVC doesn't draw as much moisture. I use a brass ball shut-off valve to keep air from leaking out of the compressor, and an in-line water filter to keep water out of the lines. I use brass fittings wherever I can in order to further help keep rust out of the lines."


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2002 - Volume #26, Issue #2