Modifications Made To Deere 1050 MFWD Loader Tractor
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I made several modifications to my Deere 1050 MFWD loader tractor to get it ready for plowing snow here in northern Michigan. I built the cab from scratch and am really proud of it. Most home-built cabs rattle around like crazy, but mine is built solid with no rattles at all. The body is made from 1/8-in. thick steel while the main cab posts are made from 2-in. sq. tubing. The fenders are made from 1/4-in. thick steel. At the time I built the cab, Deere didn't offer a hard cab for the 1050 model. I tried mounting a commercial aftermarket cab that was part steel and part canvas but found it unsatisfactory. My home-built cab has a 4-in. wide gutter around the top to keep rain off the side windows. There are four recessed quartz lights on front.
The loader arms are off a Deere 950 2-WD tractor and are equipped with homemade, quick-tach brackets for my snowblower. The snowblower was originally mounted on a frame that bolted to the underside of the tractor. However, I got tired of having to put the frame on and take it off every winter so I welded quick-tach brackets on back of it. I installed a hydraulic cylinder on the blower chute which allows me to adjust the snow throwing distance from the cab.
Because the loader was designed for a 2-WD tractor, I had to rebuild the loader frame in order to get the proper clearance.
The last project was to mount a homemade blade on back of the tractor. The blade is made from 1/4-in. thick steel. I can extend or retract a hydraulic cylinder to change the blade angle right from the cab. (Donald Campbell, Box 132, Gaylord, Mich. 49734 ph 517 732-3946; E-mail: koli@voyager.net; Website: www.minimachine.tripod.com)
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Modifications Made To Deere 1050 MFWD Loader Tractor TRACTORS Modifications 25-3-34 I made several modifications to my Deere 1050 MFWD loader tractor to get it ready for plowing snow here in northern Michigan. I built the cab from scratch and am really proud of it. Most home-built cabs rattle around like crazy, but mine is built solid with no rattles at all. The body is made from 1/8-in. thick steel while the main cab posts are made from 2-in. sq. tubing. The fenders are made from 1/4-in. thick steel. At the time I built the cab, Deere didn't offer a hard cab for the 1050 model. I tried mounting a commercial aftermarket cab that was part steel and part canvas but found it unsatisfactory. My home-built cab has a 4-in. wide gutter around the top to keep rain off the side windows. There are four recessed quartz lights on front.
The loader arms are off a Deere 950 2-WD tractor and are equipped with homemade, quick-tach brackets for my snowblower. The snowblower was originally mounted on a frame that bolted to the underside of the tractor. However, I got tired of having to put the frame on and take it off every winter so I welded quick-tach brackets on back of it. I installed a hydraulic cylinder on the blower chute which allows me to adjust the snow throwing distance from the cab.
Because the loader was designed for a 2-WD tractor, I had to rebuild the loader frame in order to get the proper clearance.
The last project was to mount a homemade blade on back of the tractor. The blade is made from 1/4-in. thick steel. I can extend or retract a hydraulic cylinder to change the blade angle right from the cab. (Donald Campbell, Box 132, Gaylord, Mich. 49734 ph 517 732-3946; E-mail: koli@voyager.net; Website: www.minimachine.tripod.com)
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